Last Days in Singapore

I’d enjoyed my kaya toast so much the day before, I went back again on Wednesday for breakfast.  This time I got the “set” with tea and soft boiled eggs.  The tea is “pulled,” poured from a height to aerate it, and mixed with steamed milk, condensed milk and hot water.  Strong and sweet, just the way I like it.

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Across from Toast Box is Bread Talk, another bakery/cafe.  It’s where I got the strange hot dog pastry last week, and I didn’t eat anything there today, but thought it was worth documenting some other odd pastries.

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I’d bought a combination ticket for the zoo parks so made the hour long three bus trek back to the area.  In the women’s bathroom, I saw this:

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I’d had to use a squat toilet earlier in the week and figured maybe a urinal was another slightly torturous Asian bathroom arrangement.  But it was so low to the ground.  I know Asian women aren’t as tall as western women, but they’re not that short!  Then I finally figured it out.  It’s a little urinal for little boys so they can come into the bathroom with their moms!  Brilliant!  They really do think of everything in Singapore!

I decided to start with River Safari and funnily enough, the first exhibit was about the Mississippi River.  Complete with a little camp and all.

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There was also with Mississippi Paddlefish.  Stella!, the restaurant where I’d worked for seven years served paddlefish caviar, but I’d never seen a live fish.  Turns out they swim with their mouths open, using electrical currents!  Totally fascinating to watch, I probably stood there for 3o minutes.  I shared a video on Facebook, and if I can figure out a way to post it here I will.  You can see right down their mouths and out through their gills.  So incredibly awesome.

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Again, it took me more tries than I should admit to get this picture, this time asking strangers to take it for me.  You’d think since everyone has a camera that they’d have some idea how to frame a photograph, some basic sense of composition.  You’d be wrong.

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The River Safari also had two pandas (don’t ask me why the pandas weren’t at the regular zoo) but they were kinda limp and lifeless looking.  Apparently they’re a big draw though, because they had their own panda-themed gift shop and restaurant.  I ordered a red bean panda bao, mostly for the novelty of it.  The other option was chocolate custard filled, so I expected it to be savory.  Wrong again.

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From there I went on an “Amazon” river cruise.  Very different from the actual cruise I did on the Amazon in Peru two years ago.We didn’t see any animals except what we could make out of the giraffe exhibit on shore at the zoo.  I liked the squirrel monkey exhibit though.

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I’d been curious to try these tau sar piah I kept passing, so figured this was my last chance

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Singapore is 13 hours ahead of New York and 14 ahead of New Orleans so I kept joking that I was texting and calling friends and family from the future.  After seeing this thing though, I really think Singapore might be the future.

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I managed to squeeze in one more yoga class before I left, and then took a walk through Robertson Quay and Clarke Quay, two areas I hadn’t seen yet.  Both are right on the river, and are obviously high end neighborhoods.  Again, Singapore pulls through with the dramatic lighting.

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While both were lined with bars and restaurants aimed at the tourist and ex-pat set, Robertson Quay was lower-key while Clarke felt more like an entertainment district, with pounding music and a slingshot ride on the riverbank.

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I’d originally planned to get the famous Singaporean chili crab for dinner, but it was both really expensive (~$70) and the only places I saw serving it seemed super touristy and fancier than anywhere I felt comfortable eating in my sweaty yoga clothes.  So I headed back to the tea and coffee stall where I’d gotten my mutton curry the night before.

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They were sold out of mutton, but for another S$4 I got a ginger tea and brown paper mystery meal #2.

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It was also really good, although maybe not quite as perfect as the mutton and rice.  I decided to walk back to the apartment, to see as much as I could on my last night.  I passed a happening stall that was selling laksa.  I’d been wanting to try it and figured it was worth  $5 just to taste it.  I also ordered some “special cheese beancurd.”

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I actually didn’t care for the laksa.  It was spicy and cooked in coconut milk, which normally I love but it had little fishy bits in it (cockles?) and kind of rubbery fried tofu.  I picked at it a bit but didn’t make much of a dent.  The special cheese beancurd however, I am embarrassed to say I finished.  Especially because they had the exact same texture of McDonalds chicken nuggets – rubbery and consistent throughout.  They were even served with sweet and sour sauce.

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I’d meant to get up early and go for a run, come home, shower, and go get lunch before heading to the airport.  Instead, I’d fallen into a blogging rabbit hole the night before and stayed up till 4 AM finishing the Gardens by the Bay post.  So I scrapped everything except the lunch part of the plan.  And even that I had to stick close to home for, in order to make my flight on time.

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“Teochew Fishball Minced Pork Noodle with extra ingredient”

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Agar agar – another thing I’d been seeing and was curious about.  It didn’t really taste like anything though and was much firmer than I like my jello to be.

When I got to the airport, I considered checking my carry on but didn’t because  I was almost at the weight limit.  When I got to security, they looked at my ticket and pulled me aside. Turns out at Tigerair they weigh your carry ons as well.  It ended up costing me another s$50.  So much for going with a low cost airline to save a few bucks.  But just when I was lamenting the fact that my last memory of Singapore would such a frustrating one, I went to the bathroom.  I walked into the first empty stall, and found this:

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A baby seat so mom can use the bathroom without juggling a child at the same time

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AND a child-sized toilet seat option so the kid can use the toilet without falling in

And if that wasn’t enough, each of the gates had a set of foot massage machines.  And they were FREE!  Thanks for the glimpse into the crystal ball, Singapore, I’m excited for the future!

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Aaah!

 

Doing All of the Things

I’d been taking my time, spreading things out, going to yoga classes, just kinda generally taking it easy on the sightseeing thing.  But Monday I realized I only had two days left in the country, and hadn’t really made a dent in my to see list. So Tuesday I put my tourist hat on and knocked out a bunch of things.  But you can’t be a super-tourist on an empty stomach, so first, breakfast: popiah, a sort of unfried spring roll, and more carrot cake.

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Popiah ingredients

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Finished product

And then a while later I got stuck in the pouring rain, so ducked into a Toast Box for some kaya toast, the classic Singaporean snack.  Kaya is an egg and coconut jam often with honey in it, and usually served on toast with butter.  It was delicious and I bought some to bring home.

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Kaya toast and peanut butter toast

When the rain let up, I retraced my steps from the night before and headed back to Garden by the Bay.  From the exterior, it’s not nearly as impressive during the day.

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Singapore Flyer, Silver Garden, and Flower Dome

But inside, the buildings were pretty impressive.  There are two conservatories: the Flower Dome and the Cloud Forest.  They’re not inexpensive to visit, S$28 to see both, but sounded interesting.  I went into the Flower Dome first.  It’s exactly what it sounds like, a dome filled with flowers.  There are sections representing all different climates/countries, a California garden, an Australian garden, an olive grove, etc.  My favorites were the succulent garden and baobabs.

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Succulent Garden & Baobabs in the Flower Dome

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The Cloud Forest is a 115 ft tall mountain showcasing the different climates that occur at different heights in cloud forests.  Your first view upon entering is of the world’s largest indoor waterfall, and then you take an elevator up to the top of the mountain, working your way back down.

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Cloud Garden

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All of the installations were pretty straightforward, with details about the plants.  One exhibit was a little bit surprising though, and didn’t have a placard.

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Lego pitcher plants…?

I was really glad I had my rain coat with me.  It really did feel like you were in a cloud – misty and chilly.  By the time I left I felt like everything I was carrying was wet.

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I walked back through the Marina Bay Sands, and to the mall for some tea.

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I swear I didn’t eat anything else!

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The mall had a canal and a gondola, just like Vegas!

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I love eggs, they’re one of my favorite things.  One of my best friend and I have a running joke about how everything is better if you put an egg on it, so I was excited to find this egg-themed cafe while exploring.

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The rain had passed and the sun was occasionally peeking through so I figured it was worth going on the Singapore Flyer, the world’s tallest observation wheel.  It stands almost 550 feet tall and offers incredible views of the city.

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Also, perhaps as a result of the questionable weather I had a capsule entirely to myself…  I know I’ve talked about how traveling solo can be lonely at times, but the hardest part is getting a decent picture of yourself.  I considered purchasing a selfie stick, but I just couldn’t bring myself to do it.  But being left alone in a capsule where no one can see you, with a great backdrop?  The perfect opportunity to try out my selfie skills!  Apparently they leave a bit to be desired.  After realizing no one wants to see that much of my pores, not even me, I switched to using the timer on my camera…

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Oops! 

That took too a bit of practice.  I don’t want to tell you how many I ended up taking trying to get a good one.  Each of the capsules has a security camera.  I can only hope no one was watching mine!  I’ll spare you the rest of the mishaps, but finally got a decent one.

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I stopped at a coffee and tea stall that looked popular, ordered a cup of tea and chose blindly among the food available.  There was no menu and they were all wrapped in brown paper so I just picked one.

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I had hoped to get back to the apartment before heading to my appointment at the zoo, but ran out of time.  So I took my brown paper mystery meal and headed to the subway.

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Hillside was my stop but wished I could’ve checked out Cashew and Beauty World

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Brown paper mystery meal

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The big reveal – some sort of mutton curry.  I know it doesn’t look like much but it was surprisingly delicious!  

The zoo is made up of four parks: the zoo itself, the River Safari, the Bird Park and the Night Safari.  A number of people had recommended the Night Safari so I went to check it out.

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The first thing I saw was a cute show in the amphitheater, where you could really see the animals well.  Then I hopped on the tram for the tour.  I tried taking pictures but between the low light and the movement of the tram, they were all blurry.  So you’ll just have to use your imagination to picture what elephants, lions, tigers and hyenas look like in the dark.  Hint: pretty much the same as they do during the day.  After the tram I walked the couple of loops which allow you to get closer to the animals.  It was kinda calming.

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The bat enclosure was my favorite.  The bats were allowed to fly free overhead.  Although I didn’t actually get to see any fly, just having them hanging so nearby was cool.  One of them walked along the mesh ceiling of the enclosure, directly overhead.  (Do you call it walking when it’s upside down?)  It really did look like a vampire, lurching and spreading and closing its wings, eventually settling into one spot, wings wrapped tight.

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While all the animals at the Night Safari are nocturnal, I am not.  It was such a long day that by the time I stumbled into the apartment, sometime after 1 AM, I felt like a zombie.  Luckily my plans for the next day weren’t too ambitious.