Hong Kong by Night

Hong Kong isn’t quite as striking as Singapore at night, but still pretty impressive.  Views of the harbor make up for some of what they’re lacking in Singapore’s lighting finesse.  Not too shabby though, as you’ll see below:

img_2415img_2418img_2419

img_2427

The one thing I regret was not getting to ride one of these double decker trams

img_2425img_2431

img_3229

Literally cooking on the street

Hong Kong has a bunch of markets that thrive at night, so I went to check them out.  First up, the Goldfish Market.

img_2445

All sorts of options for decorating your fish tanks

img_2490

Some had true aquariums, but most fish were sold this way

img_2491

img_2492

A whole street lined with everything aquatic

img_3233

Tiny turtles and tortoises

img_3234

There was a thriving food scene there as well, so I did my usual and got in the longest line, and ordered whatever they were having.

img_3239

img_3240

I think these were fish balls and shu mai, which feels a little mean being so close to so many pet fish…

img_3244

Next I walked through to the Women’s Market, which while it did have a lot of women’s accessories (i.e. knock-off purses) had a full range of tchotkes for all genders

img_3247

Who wants an Old Big Finger?

img_2495img_2501

img_3248

A massive chocolate cheese bun.  I promise I didn’t eat it all in one sitting, or even all of it.

img_3257

Also oversized…

img_3258

img_3259

In case the Extra-Stretch Scrunchies weren’t good enough

I walked past a place called the Yee Shun Milk Company and the windows were filled with these bowls.  Of course, naturally I was curious so ducked in and bought one.

img_3265

 

img_3250

Steamed milk with ginger

The milk shop had a sort of diner feel.  There were a lot of choices, with or without egg, chocolate, ginger, and others, each of them could be ordered hot or cold.  I went with the steamed milk with ginger served hot.  It was a texture unlike anything I’ve had before.  Much lighter than a creme brulee or pot de creme, and less gelatinous than flan.  It was really delicious, creamy and light and not too sweet, but sweet enough that the spice of fresh ginger juice was a nice contrast.  They also sold various types of toast and a couple of egg options too.  I’d be curious to learn how to make them at home.  It was like the perfect late night snack before I headed to the MTR to the ferry to the bus to home.

Hong Kong by Day

So I had a lot I wanted to see on Monday, and after relaxing all weekend I was ready to go.  So much to see that I’m going to break it into two posts, so you’re hopefully still awake at the end.  (Side note: I’ve been awake for nearly 24 hours at this point, with a lot more to go, prepping to get back onto New Orleans time, which is 14 hours behind without too much jet lag.  Keep your fingers crossed for me.)  So as you’ve seen in my previous posts, Hong Kong is mountainous.  Partially as a result of that, and partially as a result of the sheer quantity of people constantly in the city there are raised walkways.  They’re a couple floors above ground and connect all sorts of buildings, ferry terminals, MTR stations, etc.  They’re not always the most direct, sometimes you have to go up and over and back down when it would’ve been easier to just walk straight across the street, but they’ve got pretty decent signage so it’s not hard to find your way around.  Also, escalators.  I’ve never taken or even seen so many escalators in my life.  At almost all intersections there’s an up escalator.  I’ve been trying to take the stairs when I can (to burn off some of that delicious Hong Kong style tea with condensed milk) but I’m always the only one going up them.  There might be someone coming down them, but never up.

img_2315img_2317

To get from the Lantau ferry to the Star Ferry, I had to walk through a mall, surprise!

img_2323

Women’s bathroom in the mall, felt like a spaceship

img_2324

Hong Kong Observation Wheel, 5 meters smaller than the Singapore Flyer

The Star Ferry has been running since 1888, connecting Hong Kong Island with Kowloon.  It’s as much a tourist destination as a mode of transport, and I could see why.  Plus for 2HKD, it’s the cheapest attraction in town.

img_2332

The seats are reversible!!

img_2334

Another Star Ferry headed in opposite direction, passing Convention Center

After a beautiful weekend, Monday morning was kinda chilly, especially on the water.  I bought a hot rose tea at this little stall in the ferry terminal.

img_2336

img_2338

Perfume shop in the second mall of the morning

I’m still astounded by all of the expensive shopping in Hong Kong (and Singapore!) The malls are filled with stores like Gucci, Prada, Miu Miu, etc.  But as soon as I walked out of the mall, I turned a corner and ended up in this “temporary market.”

img_2343

I thought about getting lunch but wasn’t quite hungry yet, and also, I was kinda intiimdated by the entirely Cantonese menus, and hustle and bustle.  I didn’t know where or how to jump in.

img_2344

Chinese New Year is huge, and besides all of the chickens adorning everything, I kept seeing red envelopes for sale.  Chinese people use them to give money for the holiday, and the envelopes themselves are obviously a popular and important item.  They were the only thing this store sold.

img_2349

img_3204

Stairs to Kowloon Park

img_2367

Another set of stairs leading to Kowloon Park

While wandering around I found a place with a sign saying they were Michelin rated, and a line.  I was finally feeling a bit peckish and I figured whatever they were selling had to be good.

img_3183

Signature pan fried buns with shrimp

img_3369

Crispy on the bottom and sift on the top

img_3184

Interior view

They were incredible! The texture was just perfect, crispy and soft, all at once.  And the filling was the shrimp and dumpling meat (pork?) but also the most flavorful broth!  It was almost like this little soup inside.  An order was 36HKD, so about $4.75 US.  From there I just wandered and shopped a bit, checking out the neighborhood.

img_2371

Lunch stall near Jordan St

img_2373

Some of their offerings

My original intention had been to go to Victoria Peak, but since the weather was so gray and hazy, I had been headed towards the Hong Kong History museum instead.  Just after lunch though the sun started to burn through so I changed plans again, and headed to the tram station.  When I got there, it seemed like everyone else had been thinking the same thing.  The Peak Tram is a big draw in and of itself, it’s been open since 1888, and was quite the feat of engineering at the time.  The line was long and there was a lot of jostling but I eventually made it on to a tram without having to stab anyone.

img_2380img_2385img_2389img_2393

While it still wasn’t totally clear, the view was pretty spectacular.  There’s a building at the top with a rooftop that allows you 360 degree views.

img_3208img_2402

One of the things I’ve been loving about Hong Kong is the Octopus card.  You buy them in the MTR stations, and it’s similar to a Metrocard, you preload it with money and use it for transportation, but it does much more.  In addition to being able to use it on the bus and MTR and ferries, lots of stores, 7-11, Starbucks, some groceries, pastry shops, etc. all take it.  And not only can you use it all over, but it’s a proximity card, so no need to swipe or insert or sign.  And you can top it up at 7-11s or at MTR stations or link it to a credit card so it auto refills.  Plus, it means I don’t need to deal with change or trying to figure out the tiny unmarked coins in a foreign currency.  Just wave it in front of the reader and go!  Brilliant!!  I wish we had them at home.  I love them so much I thought about making an entire post just about them.  Maybe I’ll write a poem instead. I’ll call it Ode to the Octopus.

img_2404

Viewer with Octopus card reader

img_2405

img_3222

It was really windy.  I swear.

img_2409

 

Hong Kong – Lantau Island

I’m feeling totally spoiled.  These are my Hong Kong digs:

img_2132img_2135

img_2130

My cozy cave below deck; I’ve been sleeping like a rock

Hong Kong is made up of a number of islands, and I’m staying with my cousin Jack on his boat in Discovery Bay on Lantau Island.  I was expecting Hong Kong to be a crazy and crowded city, but I’ve been surprised by how calm and rural feeling it is on Lantau.

img_2142

The places where there are apartments are really densely packed though.  If you look closely you can see that each of these are windows.  The sheer mass is kind of overwhelming.

img_2145

My first day I decided to check out Tian Tan aka the Big Buddha, which is on Lantau.  There are no privately owned cars on Lantau, or even private taxis!  So I took the bus to another bus to the MTR station to catch a cable car.  At the MTR station they had a take out sushi stand where you could make up your own box of individually wrapped pieces.

img_2148

Of course I had to try some, so made up a little box of the oddest ones I could find.

img_2271

My sushi selection, 3HKD each, for a grand total of $2.70 US

There are two ways to get to the buddha, gondola or bus.  I was torn because the bus was much cheaper but decided to spring for the gondola.  I’m so glad I did.  The views were totally breathtaking.

img_2164

img_2193

First view of the Big Buddha

img_2201

View from Ngong Ping

The gondola brought me to Ngong Ping, a little town next to the Po Lin Monastery and the buddha.  There were 268 steps leading up to the Buddha, and once you climbed them, bronze statues surrounding his base each representing one of the six perfections required to achieve enlightenment.

img_2213

One of the Six Perfections

img_2218

Big Buddha

img_2221img_2222

 

It was hard to get a decent picture of the Buddha, and even harder to get a good Big Buddha selfie, so just imagine my grinning face way too close to you with Buddha in the background.  The view from the raised platform was really pretty though, and you could look down on the monastery.  After the buddha I decided to explore the area a bit, and headed towards the Wisdom Path.  I figured I can use all the wisdom I can get.

img_2225

img_2236

Wisdom Path

img_2256

Po Lin Monastery

img_2259img_2260

 

Po Lin Monastery had a building called the Grand Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas.  Photography was not allowed in the hall, but it was really stunning.  Glowing with lots of gold, but yet somehow so peaceful too.  You can google it for some images, or I like this one here: 10,000 Buddhas.  I spent a long time there, just taking it all in before heading back to the gondola.

img_2263img_2266

Afterward, I took the MTR and met Jack on Hong Kong island for a drink.  To get to the bar we had to walk through a mall.  Apparently Hong Kong’s mall scene is just as ridiculous as Singapore’s, but this was our view once we got there.

img_2273

Victoria Harbour as seen from IFC Tower

 

I found a yoga studio on Lantau and took a hot class the next morning.  Then I spent $20 on liquids at the nearby supermarket .  Pro tip: you shouldn’t shop thirsty in a place where you haven’t mastered the exchange rate yet.

img_3166

View while rehydrating

Jack and I took a ferry to Mui Wo, another town on Lantau.img_2279

I was surprised by the lack of bicycles in Singapore, but apparently they’re rather popular in Mui Wo.  Not only did we find this bike parking lot, but four bike shops and a bike repair stall.

img_2281img_2286

img_2295

Jack managed to catch me falling off a rock

 

There wasn’t a whole lot to see or do in Mui Wo so we headed back to the marina to have  a drink while we waited for the ferry.

IMG_3168.JPG

Jack and cider

Sunday we took a bus to the Stanley market which is on the southern part of Hong Kong Island.  Again I was surprised by how everything is so pretty and green.

img_2299

Repulse Bay (what a strange name for such a pretty place…)

img_2306img_3174img_3175

We had a nice, long, late lunch at a restaurant on the Stanley Promenade.  We took a leisurely wander through the market and plaza and I picked up a couple little souvenirs.  After this relaxing weekend of wining, dining and wandering I’m well rested and ready tackle the craziness of downtown Hong Kong tomorrow.

Last Days in Singapore

I’d enjoyed my kaya toast so much the day before, I went back again on Wednesday for breakfast.  This time I got the “set” with tea and soft boiled eggs.  The tea is “pulled,” poured from a height to aerate it, and mixed with steamed milk, condensed milk and hot water.  Strong and sweet, just the way I like it.

img_3083

Across from Toast Box is Bread Talk, another bakery/cafe.  It’s where I got the strange hot dog pastry last week, and I didn’t eat anything there today, but thought it was worth documenting some other odd pastries.

img_3087

img_3089

I’d bought a combination ticket for the zoo parks so made the hour long three bus trek back to the area.  In the women’s bathroom, I saw this:

img_3090

I’d had to use a squat toilet earlier in the week and figured maybe a urinal was another slightly torturous Asian bathroom arrangement.  But it was so low to the ground.  I know Asian women aren’t as tall as western women, but they’re not that short!  Then I finally figured it out.  It’s a little urinal for little boys so they can come into the bathroom with their moms!  Brilliant!  They really do think of everything in Singapore!

I decided to start with River Safari and funnily enough, the first exhibit was about the Mississippi River.  Complete with a little camp and all.

img_2063

img_2070

There was also with Mississippi Paddlefish.  Stella!, the restaurant where I’d worked for seven years served paddlefish caviar, but I’d never seen a live fish.  Turns out they swim with their mouths open, using electrical currents!  Totally fascinating to watch, I probably stood there for 3o minutes.  I shared a video on Facebook, and if I can figure out a way to post it here I will.  You can see right down their mouths and out through their gills.  So incredibly awesome.

img_2075img_2080

Again, it took me more tries than I should admit to get this picture, this time asking strangers to take it for me.  You’d think since everyone has a camera that they’d have some idea how to frame a photograph, some basic sense of composition.  You’d be wrong.

img_2092

The River Safari also had two pandas (don’t ask me why the pandas weren’t at the regular zoo) but they were kinda limp and lifeless looking.  Apparently they’re a big draw though, because they had their own panda-themed gift shop and restaurant.  I ordered a red bean panda bao, mostly for the novelty of it.  The other option was chocolate custard filled, so I expected it to be savory.  Wrong again.

img_3099

From there I went on an “Amazon” river cruise.  Very different from the actual cruise I did on the Amazon in Peru two years ago.We didn’t see any animals except what we could make out of the giraffe exhibit on shore at the zoo.  I liked the squirrel monkey exhibit though.

img_3109

img_3115

img_2101

 

I’d been curious to try these tau sar piah I kept passing, so figured this was my last chance

img_3125

Singapore is 13 hours ahead of New York and 14 ahead of New Orleans so I kept joking that I was texting and calling friends and family from the future.  After seeing this thing though, I really think Singapore might be the future.

img_3126

I managed to squeeze in one more yoga class before I left, and then took a walk through Robertson Quay and Clarke Quay, two areas I hadn’t seen yet.  Both are right on the river, and are obviously high end neighborhoods.  Again, Singapore pulls through with the dramatic lighting.

img_2110

img_2114

img_2116

 

While both were lined with bars and restaurants aimed at the tourist and ex-pat set, Robertson Quay was lower-key while Clarke felt more like an entertainment district, with pounding music and a slingshot ride on the riverbank.

img_2121

I’d originally planned to get the famous Singaporean chili crab for dinner, but it was both really expensive (~$70) and the only places I saw serving it seemed super touristy and fancier than anywhere I felt comfortable eating in my sweaty yoga clothes.  So I headed back to the tea and coffee stall where I’d gotten my mutton curry the night before.

img_3129

They were sold out of mutton, but for another S$4 I got a ginger tea and brown paper mystery meal #2.

img_3128

It was also really good, although maybe not quite as perfect as the mutton and rice.  I decided to walk back to the apartment, to see as much as I could on my last night.  I passed a happening stall that was selling laksa.  I’d been wanting to try it and figured it was worth  $5 just to taste it.  I also ordered some “special cheese beancurd.”

img_2128

I actually didn’t care for the laksa.  It was spicy and cooked in coconut milk, which normally I love but it had little fishy bits in it (cockles?) and kind of rubbery fried tofu.  I picked at it a bit but didn’t make much of a dent.  The special cheese beancurd however, I am embarrassed to say I finished.  Especially because they had the exact same texture of McDonalds chicken nuggets – rubbery and consistent throughout.  They were even served with sweet and sour sauce.

img_2107

I’d meant to get up early and go for a run, come home, shower, and go get lunch before heading to the airport.  Instead, I’d fallen into a blogging rabbit hole the night before and stayed up till 4 AM finishing the Gardens by the Bay post.  So I scrapped everything except the lunch part of the plan.  And even that I had to stick close to home for, in order to make my flight on time.

img_3134

“Teochew Fishball Minced Pork Noodle with extra ingredient”

img_3135

Agar agar – another thing I’d been seeing and was curious about.  It didn’t really taste like anything though and was much firmer than I like my jello to be.

When I got to the airport, I considered checking my carry on but didn’t because  I was almost at the weight limit.  When I got to security, they looked at my ticket and pulled me aside. Turns out at Tigerair they weigh your carry ons as well.  It ended up costing me another s$50.  So much for going with a low cost airline to save a few bucks.  But just when I was lamenting the fact that my last memory of Singapore would such a frustrating one, I went to the bathroom.  I walked into the first empty stall, and found this:

img_3138

A baby seat so mom can use the bathroom without juggling a child at the same time

img_3139

AND a child-sized toilet seat option so the kid can use the toilet without falling in

And if that wasn’t enough, each of the gates had a set of foot massage machines.  And they were FREE!  Thanks for the glimpse into the crystal ball, Singapore, I’m excited for the future!

img_3140

Aaah!

 

The one that’s not all about food

Ok, so I swear there’s stuff in here that’s not edible, but first…

img_3001

The many varieties of durian, you can literally smell this place from a block away

I stopped into the Mustafa Centre on my way to yoga the other day.  It’s another shopping spot, this one in Little India, people had recommended I check out and I’d walked by a couple of times but I hadn’t made it in.  I figured it’d be like all of the many other malls.  Wrong.  It’s crazy, the only really chaotic place I’ve seen in the city.  I don’t even quite know how to describe it, it’s as if a Super Walmart and a flea market had an Asian baby?  I know the world literally is completely overused, but I believe this place might literally sell everything.  Electronics, household goods, toiletries, clothing, anything you can think of.  And the full spectrum of quality of each, from cheap costume jewelry to expensive watches.  Add in narrow aisles, it being a tourist attraction as well as a functioning store for locals, and that all of them have shopping carts and it was totally overwhelming.  I apologize that there aren’t a lot of pictures but I didn’t have a lot of time and it was making me anxious.  They did have an entire counter full of flashlights, which as you already know, are my favorite!  (And if you didn’t already know, I’m still accepting Christmas and birthday presents.)

img_2916

 

img_2757

Chair socks. That’s right.  Chair socks.

img_2919

Fresh squeezed orange juice vending machine

img_2928

One of the many many malls

img_2929

img_2932

Taro milk tea, my favorite

So that evening, I met someone else who I’d connected with on Bumble.  We’d been talking for a couple of days, and his profile said “Gentleman. Gamma male.  Conversationalist. Bookworm.”  If even one of those things were actually true he’d be worlds ahead of the first guy.  We met at the beautiful and high-end Raffles Hotel, home of the Singapore Sling.  On each table there was a bag of roasted peanuts, and there were shells all over the floor.  It’s tradition but I had a really hard time tossing mine on the ground.  In New Orleans I wouldn’t have thought twice but here in Singapore everything is so clean it seemed sacrilegious.  Even when I went for a run there was a man with a broom sweeping leaves off the boardwalk!  In the middle of the forest!

img_3002

Singapore Sling, it tasted a lot like a hurricane

My date was great, and a good sport for meeting me at such a touristy place.  Especially when the bill came and the drinks were $36 each.  Had I known that, I would’ve eaten more peanuts!  He’s Indian, grew up in the South, near Chennai.  Not only does he speak a bunch of languages but he has traveled and lived all over the world.  Turns out he even lived in New Orleans for six months!  We hit it off, talking about all sorts of things: yoga, travel, politics, music, food, more travel.  After our drinks we walked to a South Indian restaurant he loves for dinner.  He ordered the rocket dosai for me, which looks how it sounds:

img_1825

Rocket dosai with chutneys 

From there we walked to Garden by the Bay.  This city is incredibly efficient and modern, it’s amazing in all sorts of ways but if there’s one thing they really nail, it’s dramatic lighting.  Even regular buildings in the city are highlighted beautifully and Garden by the Bay is meant to be artistic, so it’s really breathtaking.  Also, their special Christmas installation had just finished, but hadn’t been broken down yet so some the structures were still up, but not lit.  It gave the place a bit of a ghostly feel.  And I want to apologize in advance, there are a lot of similar pictures.  I always try to edit down as much as I can, I don’t want anyone to get bored but I had a really hard time with this post.  I really love these pictures.  I had so much fun taking them and some of them don’t even look real but I swear I didn’t do anything to them.  I don’t have Photoshop and wouldn’t know how to use it if I did. I’m certainly open to any feedback you have about them though, so I can pare down to a more reasonable number.

img_2953

At first we couldn’t figure out why all these people were laying on benches, it seemed like an odd place to nap but then Christmas music started playing and a light show started, with the trees blinking and throbbing to the music.  It was really fun and the big finale was to my favorite Christmas song, Mariah Carey’s “All I Want For Christmas Is You.”

img_2954img_2956img_2957

img_2979img_1835

The Gardens are free to wander around.  Besides the Supertrees there are sculptures and actual gardens and koi ponds and a river.  Plus one of the oddest vending machines I’ve ever seen:

img_2980

From Frozen to Hot in Minutes

img_2982

img_1830

img_1855

img_1840

Between the Garden by the Bay and the rest of the city is the Marina Bay Sands, perhaps the city’s most striking building.  It’s a casino and hotel with 2,500 rooms.  It’s made up of three 55 story towers with a “SkyPark” top connecting them.  The SkyPark has restaurants, clubs, an observation deck and a nearly 500 foot long infinity pool that sits 600 feet above the ground.

img_1866

img_1858img_1867img_1853

img_1868

We walked through the hotel and stayed on the raised walkway, which brought us to the marina.  There were some incredible views of the hotel, the water, the city skyline and the mall (surprise!)

img_2994

img_1870img_1872

img_1876

img_1877

img_1881

Helix Bridge & Bum Boats

img_1883img_1888img_2999img_1892img_1896

New Year’s Day

Seeing everyones posts made me think about the fact that I haven’t done too much reflecting on 2016 or 2017.  There’s been so much change in 2016 that I think I was too busy feeling it to have a lot of perspective.  So I spent the first day of the year just alone in my own head, catching up on some yoga reading and some writing, and trying to set some goals for the upcoming year.  I put my bathing suit on and laid on the roof deck with my journal, my book, my laptop and my phone and it was just what I needed.  Eventually I ventured out for lunch at Whampoa, the local “wet market” and hawker center.

img_1795

Durian

img_1801

I want to make sure I’m getting to try the best things so today I instituted a new system.  I figured the locals know best so just started following the crowd.  I got on the longest line and ate whatever they were selling.  For lunch it was the “Best Lu Mian in Town.”  It cost S$3, which is about $2 US.  I have no idea what Lu Mian is, but it was delicious.

img_1811

Also, everyone in front of me was putting all the condiments on their dish, so I did that too, not knowing what any of them were besides the chilis.  I figured the green stuff seemed safe but I thought the red paste might be lethal but when in Rome…

img_1819

Condiment options – I tried them all and didn’t even cry! Turns out the clear-ish stuff is raw garlic.

img_1804

Best Lu Mian in town

img_1808

img_1814

The other longest line.  Putting it on my to do list.

img_1815

Dollar Store Bins

img_1816

Red Kueh, it’s meant to look like a turtle shell ~$2 US

img_1818

Peanut Kueh Interior

img_1820

Balestier Road

After lunch I did some more reading and then walked the hour downtown to a yoga class, which just happened to be near the Maxwell Food Market.  I got dinner there again, this time trying the best known Singaporean dish, Hainanese chicken rice.  I ordered the “set” which came with clear soup and bok choy.  I also added a black soy soaked egg because eggs make everything better.

img_2899

When I got back to the apartment, Estela had bought banana fritters, and claimed these were the best in the city, because unlike most the pastry didn’t get soggy.  She was right, they were incredible.  Flaky, crunchy, sweet, with a not-too-sweet banana in the center.   I promise tomorrow’s will have something cultural, or at least something that’s not about food.  😉

img_2900

Rolling Luggage

 

This is an unusual trip for me in a few ways.  I usually take longer trips, two weeks is more of a vacation than a “trip,” at least in my head.  And not only is it shorter, but I usually just  book my flights, pack my backpack and wing it, staying in hostels and cheap hotels and moving on when I feel like I’ve been in a place long enough, seen what I wanted to see.  To have a set itinerary and places to stay (and real luggage!) is strange for me.  I’m definitely not complaining, the apartment where I’m staying in Singapore is about 300x times nicer than anywhere I would normally stay.  And I’m really excited to visit my cousin Jack in Hong Kong, but it’s still odd.  Plus, not staying at hostels meals it’s much harder to meet people.  After spending three days solo, without any one to really talk to, I woke up yesterday feeling kinda lonely.  I go through this every trip, although I choose to travel solo, and I love it, I still get a wave of loneliness at some point in each trip. I can picture where I was sitting last year in Chiang Mai when I called my cousin about it, or the internet cafe in Varanasi where years ago I sobbed to my mom.  Since it’s 2016 and I’m single I figured, why not use a dating app?  I’d seen people who posted they were just looking to make friends and I’d been dabbling a bit anyway so gave it a shot.  One of the guys I matched with on Bumble said he was spending the day at the Botanic Gardens and invited me to join him.  It’d been on my list of things to do anyway, and I figured it was public enough that if he tried to kidnap me, someone would hear me scream (kidding mom!) so I went.  He’s an American currently stationed in Singapore with the Navy.  First we checked out the orchid garden, which was pretty awesome.  Orchids are the national flower of Singapore, it’s even on their flag. img_1781img_1782img_1790img_1791img_1794img_2833img_2835

After the orchid garden we wandered a bit more.  Mr. Bumble was nice enough, but sort of weirdly argumentative.  He had to debate almost everything I said, picking on my choice to use a camera instead of just my iPhone, disagreeing about which direction to walk, whether or not wild monkeys lived in the park, even my height!  All the while unintentionally calling the orchids orchards.  You all know I can be pretty opinionated, but I usually save it for at least the second date.  I’m sure he thought it was charming banter and that his repeatedly poking me was flirty, but he just wasn’t my speed.  I asked him to take a picture of me in front of the gates, and when I checked later, there was a selfie of him sticking out his tongue as lagniappe.  That’s what happens when you go out with strangers you met on the internet.  I posted the picture here, but thought maybe that was a bit too mean and deleted it.  I did get this picture out of it though:

img_2839

Humidity hair

Leaving the park was this big Elizabeth-blue building.  Apparently it’s Interpol’s office.img_2842

I know I mentioned the shopping in my last post, but wanted to show a bit more.  Here in Tang’s, a department store, the food counters are mixed right in with the clothing shopping, you don’t even have to leave to go to a food court.

img_2844

Bon bon or blouse?  Why choose?  You can have both!

Chunky bead necklaces I keep seeing around town which I like, even though they remind me of the macaroni necklaces we made in kindergarten.img_2845

If you read my posts from Thailand you know I can’t resist anything coconut, and was excited to find a coconut smoothie here in Singapore.

img_2847

 

img_2852

My new motto

Speaking of, on my way home I stopped to buy some water and some tea, but found this instead and got distracted:

img_2859

White Fungi Drink “No added preservatives, artificial flavor or coloring.  Not from concentrate. Contains natural sediment.”

img_2860

In case you missed it.

Weirdly it tasted like sugar water, again.  Slightly earthier than the bird’s nest drink, but not much different, and definitely not very mushroom-y.

I’m in yoga teacher training at home and have been practicing a lot recently and loving it. I’d been searching for a yoga studio here in Singapore to continue my practice while I travel.  Either the classes were absurdly expensive AND seemed rather basic or they didn’t allow drop-ins or short term memberships.  Mr. Debate-a-lot is definitely not my Mr. Right but he did have a good tip for a yoga studio so it wasn’t a total wash.  I took a “hot power” class which was really good even though it was only an hour.  It felt good just to be back on my mat.  Afterwards I hung out with Estela, my friend’s helper.  We went to get some dinner before heading out to to see the fireworks.  We went to the hawker market nearby, and when I asked her what she was ordering, she said she was getting something from the Thai stand, so I did as well.

img_2863

Thai Papaya salad with fish sauce and peanuts, one of my favorites

img_2864

Estela’s minced pork dish

img_2865

Honey chicken with fried garlic slices

We met Estela’s cousin and started the trek downtown to the fireworks.  When we got there we walked for what felt like miles, all of the sidewalks were cordoned off and the police were controlling everything very precisely.  We had to walk in circles to get where we were trying to go, and although it was really crowded, people were really calm, never pushy or loud.

img_2866

I know it’s a terrible picture but it’s a holographic car, I couldn’t resist

The architecture in Singapore is really stunning, even more so at night.  I’m looking forward to exploring it more in the next few days. Finally we found a spot to watch from and waited.

img_2868

img_2867

Marina Bay Sands

img_2869

img_2875

Supertree and Cloud Forest

img_2881

img_2885

I’m glad I went but the fireworks themselves were actually kind of disappointing.  After the first few went off the cloud of smoke was so thick and so unmoving that you couldn’t really see the rest of them.  I don’t know if it was because of the heat or humidity or what.  I’ve never seen that happen before.  Looking forward to taking some time to reflect on the past year and my hopes and goals for the coming one.  Best wishes for lots of love, health, happiness and luck in 2017.  Happy New Year y’all!

Lazy Day

After being trapped in transit for so long, and having my first day planned by accidentally scheduling a cooking class, I needed a day to get out and stretch my legs.  At my host’s suggestion I headed to MacRitchie Park and Reservoir.  Running in New York made me feel like I was in such good shape, I did 5 and 7 mile runs without any trouble.  Running in Singapore made me feel totally different, my pace went from 9 minutes a mile to almost 11.  To be fair it was 85 degrees, New Orleans muggy, hilly, and there was traffic on my way to and from the park.  I managed to struggle through 5 or 6 miles anyway, and the view made it totally worth it:

img_2779

img_2783

img_2785After my run I decided to take advantage of the sunshine, which seems to be a rarity in Singapore and head to Sentosa.  I was thirsty after my run and had seen an interesting drink in the vending machine at the end of my block. I grabbed one on my way to the bus stop and ventured a tentative sip. Surprisingly, it was good.  Apparently bird’s nest tastes a lot like coconut water, mild, sweet, totally inoffensive.

img_2787

According to the ingredient list it contains “genuine birds nest”

A bus and a subway later, I realized I was starving so checked out one of the many bread places in the mall where I had to transfer from the subway to the Sentosa monorail.  I can’t get over how many malls there are here, or how maze-like they all are.  They’re like casinos: no maps, no clocks, no natural light and full of escalators, ramps and underpasses so you never have to leave.  I skipped the shopping and just grabbed a snack.img_2788

img_2789

img_2815

img_2817

img_2790

img_2793

I didn’t realize it but Sentosa is really built up.  I was just excited to go lay on a beach and read in the sun, but it seems that most people go for the rides.  Imagine Disney had a beach, that’s what Sentosa is like. Indoor skydiving and other activities, and all of the restaurants are sort of themed.

img_2795

I made it through the crowd and to the beaches, which were remarkably un-crowded given the fact that I’d had to stand in line for almost 30 minutes to just to buy the $4 monorail ticket.  The beaches there are really beautiful but odd.  If you looked past the white sand and the clear water there were tons of huge container ships and cranes just offshore.img_2796

img_2798

img_2800img_1780I spent the day happily reading Sweetbitter and feeling nostalgic about working in the restaurant.  Then out of nowhere, it started to pour.  You’d think that people were made of sugar the way they ran for shelter at the first rain drops.  They’d all just been swimming but somehow water from the sky is different?  It was bizarre to watch.

img_2805

I was disappointed to lose the sun but happily absorbed in my book so hid under an overhang and just kept reading, overlooking the deserted beach.

img_2810img_2814

img_2818

From Sentosa I headed back to Chinatown to get dinner.  I’d been debating between trying some “carrot cake” or the Huanese chicken rice that Singapore is known for but the chicken rice stall that had been recommended was closed so I didn’t have to choose.img_2828

Carrot cake comes in two types, black, and white.  White is the regular, black is the regular plus a sweet molasses soy sauce.  I’d had too much sun and not enough food to make a decision so I ordered both.  As I mentioned earlier, carrot cake doesn’t have any carrot in it, nor is it a cake.  It’s made of egg and radish cake (which is steamed) and garlic, onion, etc. all mixed up together in a wok.  They tasted omelette-esque, especially the white. While both delicious, I particularly liked the black.  It has that savory-sweet combination I love so much.  Excited to eat more of it while I’m here.

img_2829

Black and white carrot cake

For dessert I resisted all of the soybean curd puddings and just had more mangosteens

img_2753

Mmmm… Mangosteen

 

 

First day in Singapore

It’s impossible to believe my trip to Thailand was a year ago already, and yet it feels like a lifetime as well.  While both the world at large and my personal world have changed so much this year, my love of travel and food have remained constant.  So here’s the first day of my newest adventure: a week in Singapore and a week in Hong Kong.

 

img_2716

It took two flights to get to here, one 12 1/2 hour flight from NY to Doha, Qatar and another 7 1/2 hour flight from Doha to Singapore.  By the time I got off the plane, I was totally completely disoriented.  I’d stayed up the entire night before to get adjusted but ended up sleeping in bits and pieces on the plane, rather than in a block like I’d hoped.  That plus the changes in time zone left me totally confused.  It’s really strange to arrive a day and a half after you left, when you’ve only been traveling for 24 hours.  Luckily, I’m staying at a beautiful penthouse apartment, so that definitely softened the blow.  Thanks again Paul & Michelle!!

img_2717

The beautiful bathroom where I took a much needed shower

I booked a cooking class, but unfortunately my bad time change mathmeant that I signed up for a cooking class my first morning, not my second.  I was dreading the alarm this morning.

img_2725

I’m looking remarkably awake, considering (if I do say so myself)

img_2722

Dessert first: coconut milk, mung bean powder, pandan and corn pudding

img_2720

Weaving these little pandan baskets as molds for the pudding might’ve been my favorite part

img_2732

Ingredients for the char kway teow (which is kinda similar to pad thai)

img_2728

Lemongrass, candle nut, galangal, chili, garlic and shallot which we pounded into paste for the peanut sauce

img_2734

The finished products: chicken satay with homemade peanut sauce, char kway teow and corn hoon kueh

The peanut sauce was much different than the one I’ve always gotten at Vietnamese restaurants.  Instead of tasting like sweet peanut butter (which I love!) it was thinner and much more spicy and balanced.  I spent the rest of the day just wandering around, first in Chinatown:

img_2745

Temple in Chinatown

img_1675

Array of chopsticks

img_1677

Bamboo fans

img_1681

Fans and paper cut outs

img_1682

Lots of chickens, for good luck?

img_1684

img_1685

Chinese sausage

img_1686

Many flavors of peanut

img_1688

Chinatown

img_1690

Reproduction of the 8×8 room the average Chinese family lived in in Singapore

img_1693

Bakkwa, or barbecued meat.  To me it tastes a lot like the boneless spare ribs you get from Chinese restaurants, salty and sweet, fatty and delicious.

img_1694

Dried seafood, I didn’t taste this.  Wait till I get smell-o-vision on this blog!

I was passing a place, Mei Heong Yuen desserts that had a big line, and some interesting looking treats, so I stopped.  Due to a lucky miscommunication, I ended up with two desserts.

img_1700

Peanut “paste” more like a warm sweet peanut soup, the consistency of as-yet-uncooled pudding, or ice cream base

img_1701

Almond and sesame snow ice, the New Orleans snowball’s much more delicate and less-sweet Singaporean cousin

img_1708

More lucky chickens

img_1709

Fish cake stuffed foods

img_1714

They had everything you could think of stuffed with fish cakes, including eggplant

img_1716

Mangosteen, one of my favorites!

img_1717

Pommelo, wrapped for the new year?

img_1723

Food court in Chinatown

img_1727

“Carrot Cake” is actually a savory radish dish.  The translation of radish is “white carrot”but white is a color of mourning, and considered unlucky so it got shortened.

img_1730

Char Kway Teow stand in Chinatown food court

img_1732

This was the only stall with a line, I was too full to eat anything else but will try to get back there and see if it lives up to the hype

img_1739

Red is considered lucky so many stands were full of red items for the new year

img_1741

Red on red on

img_1742

red…

img_2754

Will have to go back and try this another day too

img_1745

img_1746

Egg and coconut tart from famous bakery Tong Heng.  It tasted just like my mom’s coconut custard pie but in a flaky pastry crust.

img_1751

Glutinous rice cakes to celebrate the New Year. Wrapped in pandan leaves and steamed for over 12 hours.  They had them in all different sizes.

img_1753

I didn’t get to try one, but they’re fancy mochi, a Japanese treat

img_1755

The architecture in Singapore is really modern and a few buildings like this one, incorporated trees or plants

img_1757

Lots of really fancy shopping malls

img_2758

Follow your dreams

img_1758

St. Andrews Cathedral. I loved how much space it has, this vast swatch of green in the middle of the city, a little bit of calm right next to a bustling public transportation stop

img_1761

And how it nestled in among more modern architecture

img_1762

Raffles Mall

img_1764

Somehow the architecture reminds me of Vienna…?

img_1779

Singapore also has a large Indian population, in addition to the Chinese

img_1765

I just love the juxtaposition of the old building and the giant modern mall

Bangkok – Day One

Thanks for coming along on my newest adventure!  I’m so excited to be spending a month exploring Thailand!

IMG_8217

My 747 from Detroit to Seoul, unfortunately I spent the 13 hours downstairs, in cattle class

I slept through half of it, but was pleasantly surprised at the movie selection when I was awake, and the view wasn’t bad either:

IMG_8237

First sunrise of the new year, over Siberia

IMG_8242

It seemed endless, even from the plane

Even after spending 24 hours in transit, with a 12 hour time change, plus a hotel room with broken air conditioning overlooking (and overhearing) an elevated highway, I still had the energy for a long, busy day. In the morning, I took the ferry up the river to the Wat Po, home of the reclining Buddha, and the Grand Palace.  At the entrance was this sign:

IMG_8257

Who would put buddha on a dog bed anyway?!

IMG_0325

The Golden Buddha himself, or at least his head

IMG_0328

All 150 feet of him! (Except actually his feet, which are under renovation)

IMG_0327

Every single surface is so incredibly detailed, and in his reflection, the entire place glows gold

Leaning Temple Column

Close up of one of his columns

cropped-img_0333.jpg

Part of his pedestal

IMG_0341

Wat Po courtyard

IMG_0367

So glad I’m not in charge of the Windex!

IMG_0356

Many buddhas of Wat Po

IMG_0306

Gateway at Wat Po

After Wat Po I stopped to grab some breakfast.  I considered some of the delicious fruit on offer:

image

image

Rose apples

But decided I needed some protein

image

Plus, with this little boy cooking, how could I resist?

image

Quail eggs served with soy sauce over shredded cabbage.

 

The Grand Palace might have been the most crowded place I’ve ever been.  I’m talking worse than Rockefeller Center on Christmas Eve crowded.  Lift you off your feet crowded.  And it was 90+ degrees, in the blazing sun.  It’s my own fault for going on a Saturday, but wow!

IMG_0369

Elephant at the Grand Palace, Thai people rub their heads for good luck

IMG_0364

More of the Grand Palace

image

Like how my the palace matches my borrowed skirt?

One of my favorite parts of the Grand Palace was the textile museum, which had a collection of the outfits worn by the Queen over the years, as well as information about traditional Thai silks and patterns.  There was even a movie of the various lengths of silk being wrapped around a figure so you could see how they are worn.  Besides the fabrics being intricate, the folds themselves are really complicated.  Unfortunately no cameras were allowed except in this demonstration area:

image

A woman was hand weaving this silk shawl

Afterward the Grand Palace I went wandering…

image

A “cider” and condensed milk drink, with a really nice contrast between the two

image

A woman making a “rainbow” crepe.  I’ve never seen one before, or a squeeze bottle with three openings…

image

You can buy almost anything on a stick

IMG_0702

Weirdly, there are 7-11s everywhere, although they don’t carry the same stuff as ours at home…

IMG_0375

Like fish flavored taro snacks inside, which are right next to the seaweed chips, neither of which I’ve ever seen at “Ghetto Sevs” 🙂

IMG_0392

Noodles for days

IMG_0390

Dried fish flavored with sesame, they’re actually pretty good!

IMG_0376

I couldn’t figure out what these little yellow fruits being sold in the markets were until I stumbled onto an old man in an alley who was cleaning them.  They’re baby pineapples, about the size of an apple.

IMG_0391

 

IMG_0380

There are cats everywhere.  (And yet still a surprising number of rats!)

IMG_0388

Requisite arty picture

IMG_8297

Sunset over the Dawn Temple

IMG_0394

Banana-leaf wrapped sweet sticky rice with banana and peanuts, delicious!

IMG_0436

Color coordinated cash run.  Even monks need money.

IMG_8308

Flowers for sale in the flower market.  Before

IMG_8317

And after

IMG_8312

They’re bought for all sorts of reasons, many religious

IMG_8313

The arrangements are really labor intensive

IMG_8319

Boxes outside the market

I finally caught a cab back to my hotel, where I picked up my bags, and moved to a hostel where I checked into a women’s dorm.

image

That’s my bed, one of the 8 in the room

IMG_8334

The hostel has a hip, modern industrial feel

There is a bar downstairs with outdoor seating, a laundry facility, and a “media room,” all for about $12 a night.  After getting settled in, I headed to a seafood restaurant nearby for dinner.  It was one of the first places I’d been all day that actually had a door.

IMG_8327

I had fresh water prawns with glass noodles in a hot pot and they were so good I considered a second order

image

And, after a long hot day, a much needed beer to wash it all down

IMG_0415

Tuk tuk outside of Grand Temple at night

(I actually walked home, but tuk tuks are just so cute!)